Window replacement is one project with two very different jobs hiding inside it. An insert (pocket) replacement keeps the existing frame and trim and drops a new window into the opening. A full-frame replacement removes everything down to the rough opening, which lets the installer fix flashing and rot but costs more.
Frame material and glass package set the product price. Vinyl with double-pane glass is the value pick for most homes. Fiberglass costs more and is more durable. Wood suits historic homes where looks matter. Triple-pane glass pays off mostly in cold climates or noisy locations.
Installation quality matters as much as the window. A good window installed with poor flashing leaks, so ask how the opening is flashed and sealed, not only what brand is going in.
What it costs
| Frame material | Average per window | What you trade |
|---|---|---|
| Aluminum | $453 | Low cost, lower energy efficiency |
| Vinyl | $472 | Affordable, low maintenance, fewer finishes |
| Composite | $513 | Durable, low maintenance |
| Wood | $544 | Traditional look, more upkeep |
| Fiberglass | $564 | Durable and efficient, highest cost |
From the This Old House 2026 survey of 1,000 window customers: $517 per installed window on average and $7,183 per project (about seven windows). By glass, single-pane averaged $400, double-pane $529, and triple-pane $609 per window.
What moves the price
- Frame material
- About $110 per window between the cheapest and most expensive frames in the survey.
- Glass package
- Single, double, or triple pane, low-e coatings, and gas fills.
- Insert or full-frame
- Full-frame work includes trim, flashing, and any rot repair.
- Number and size
- Some pros discount larger projects. Large or custom sizes cost more.
- Second-story access
- Higher windows take more labor and equipment.
Signs it is time
- Drafts you can feel on a windy day with the window locked
- Condensation or fog between the panes of a sealed unit
- Sashes that stick, will not stay up, or will not lock
- Soft or rotted wood at the sill or trim
- Water stains on the wall below a window
- Noticeable heat gain in summer or heat loss in winter
Questions to ask a pro
- Insert or full-frame, and why for these windows?
- Which frame material and glass package, and what are the U-factor and SHGC numbers?
- How will each opening be flashed and sealed?
- Who removes and disposes of the old windows and cleans up lead-paint dust (for pre-1978 homes)?
- What does the manufacturer cover and for how long, and what does the installer cover?
- Is the price per window or for the whole project, and what changes it?
Common questions
Should I replace all the windows at once?
Not necessarily. Replace the worst ones first if the budget is tight, but pick one style and frame so the house looks consistent. Package pricing for larger projects can lower per-window cost.
Will new windows pay for themselves in energy savings?
Usually slowly. Energy savings are real but modest next to the purchase price; comfort, noise, and fixing rot or leaks are the bigger reasons for most people.